Lake Nemi, which is located in the Alban Hills southeast of Rome, is a small volcanic lake with deep roots in Roman mythology and history. It’s known for its serene beauty and historical significance, and offers visitors a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of nearby Rome, which is about 25 kilometers away.
During my time living in Genzano di Roma, I had the opportunity to visit Lake Nemi, as well as the surrounding towns of Albano Laziale and Nemi. I explored the ancient Emissary of Lake Nemi and the Museo delle Navi Romane, which houses artifacts from the legendary ships built by Emperor Caligula.
In the picture below, you can see me next to the statue of Diana, goddess of the hunt in Roman mythology, which is located in the town Nemi.
In this article, I’ll share some of my personal experiences along with the broader history of Lake Nemi, and what makes it such a special destination to visit if you’re traveling to Rome.
You can easily explore the best of what the area has to offer during a daytrip, starting from Rome.
Table of Contents
The Geography and Setting of Lake Nemi
Lake Nemi is a volcanic crater lake, formed within the caldera of an extinct volcano. Its surface area spans around 1.67 square kilometers, and it reaches a depth of 33 meters.
Surrounded by dense forests and perched upon hills, the lake has a quite tranquil charm that you’ll notice as soon as you get a good view of it. The town of Nemi (shown in the picture above), sitting high above the lake, gives you panoramic views of the water and the surrounding countryside.
By living in Genzano di Roma, which is just a short distance from the lake, I had easy access to the spot from which this picture was taken. The nearby town Albano Laziale also gives a nice glimpse into local Italian culture and history, including in Roman times and after.
How to Reach Lake Nemi
From Rome, the easiest way to reach Lake Nemi is by train to Albano Laziale, followed by a short bus or taxi ride to the lake. If you’re going from the city center of Rome, you might expect a journey of about 2 hours, give or take.
Alternatively, renting a car will make it easier for you to explore the Castelli Romani region, which includes other volcanic lakes, such as Lake Albano, and beautiful towns like Ariccia and Frascati. It’s also quite easy to get to these locations by bus from any of the towns in the region, which I discovered when starting from the city square (piazza) of Genzano di Roma.
The History of Lake Nemi
In addition to being a peaceful place to hang out, Lake Nemi also holds some fascinating Roman history and mythology. In ancient times, the lake was sacred to Diana Nemorensis, the Roman goddess of the hunt, the moon, and wild animals.
The Temple of Diana, which once stood on the northern shore of the lake, was a prominent religious site for Romans. Though much of the temple and its sanctuary has been lost by now, you can still see some of its remnants, as shown from this picture I took from the town Nemi.
The Temple of Diana
The Temple of Diana Nemorensis was one of the most important religious sanctuaries in ancient Rome. Pilgrims from across the region would travel to the temple to honor the goddess Diana. The temple was the focal point for various rituals and celebrations, and it was surrounded by myths about Diana’s connection to the lake.
I couldn’t gain access to the temple, and was a bit surprised at how difficult it was to get close to some of the monuments around Lake Nemi (there was no information on how to pay or gain access).
The Villa of the Antonines is another example; it’s all barred off by fences and old, worn-down posters explaining the history of the places. Grass and moss is allowed to grow and cover up beautiful ancient buildings and temples, and I wonder whether these relics of the past are being looked after at all.
On the town’s website, they write that reconstruction projects are planned for some of the monuments, but meanwhile, it seems like they’re just allowed to atrophy.
Anyway, during my visit to the museum by Lake Nemi, I learned about the ancient rituals that once took place at the temple of Diana. One of the most famous was the Rex Nemorensis, a priesthood passed down through a tradition of combat, where the reigning priest would be replaced by another who killed him in a duel. The challenger would also have to be a runaway slave, which is quite an interesting detail they chose to add to the process.
Emperor Caligula’s Nemi Ships
One of the most fascinating aspects of Lake Nemi’s history is the Nemi Ships, two massive vessels built by Emperor Caligula in the first century AD. These ships, measuring over 70 meters in length, were used for religious ceremonies, luxurious banquets, or perhaps even as floating palaces.
Caligula, known for his extravagant tastes, ensured that these ships were among the most lavish in Roman history, featuring marble floors, statues, and intricate mosaics.
In the 1930s, under Mussolini’s orders, Lake Nemi was partially drained to retrieve these ships, which had sunk during Caligula’s reign. Unfortunately, both ships were destroyed in World War II. However, models, artifacts, and exhibits relating to the ships are housed in the Museo delle Navi Romane, located on the shore of the lake.
During my visit to the museum, I saw models of the ships and various artefacts that provide a glimpse into the engineering feats of the Romans. It’s a fascinating place to learn about this chapter of Lake Nemi’s history, and I’ve always been a fan of anything ancient!
The Emissary of Lake Nemi
Another interesting and impressive feature of Lake Nemi’s ancient infrastructure is the Emissary, a man-made tunnel system built by the Romans to regulate the water level of the lake. The Emissary spans over 1.5 kilometers and was constructed to prevent flooding and create more usable land around the lake.
I visited the Emissary and found it to be one of the most remarkable Roman structures in the area. Walking near the exit where the water would have flown out, into a 20 kilometer long canal leading to the ocean, it’s easy to appreciate the scale of this ancient project. It really gave me a sense of how advanced Roman engineering was, even in rural areas like Lake Nemi.
Things to Do Around Lake Nemi
Hiking and Nature Walks
The forests surrounding Lake Nemi are perfect if you love nature. I found the hiking trails around the lake to be peaceful and a great way to take in the natural beauty of the area.
Personally, I started from the town Nemi, but there are also other trails that offer varying degrees of difficulty, from simple strolls along the lakeside to more challenging hikes that take you higher into the hills.
Visiting the Town of Nemi
The town of Nemi, located on the hilltop overlooking the lake, is known for its medieval charm and its famous wild strawberries (fragoline di bosco). During my visit, I explored the town’s narrow streets and stopped at local shops that sell a variety of meat, souvenirs and more.
Nemi is also home to several small cafés and restaurants where you can enjoy traditional Italian dishes while taking in the views of the lake.
Nemi is especially vibrant during the Sagra delle Fragole (Strawberry Festival), an annual event held in June, which celebrates the town’s wild strawberries with parades, music, and food stalls.
Exploring Genzano di Roma and Albano Laziale
Living in Genzano di Roma gave me a chance to experience the local culture and life in a small Italian town. Known for the Infiorata Festival, where the streets are decorated with elaborate floral patterns, Genzano has a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. The town also offers wonderful views of Lake Nemi from various vantage points.
Albano Laziale is another nearby town I visited. One of the oldest settlements in the area, Albano has a rich history dating back to ancient Roman times. Today, it is home to a mix of historical sites, churches, and local eateries, and even has some remains of a Roman aqueduct.
Here is a picture I took of Lake Albano, which is significantly larger than Lake Nemi:
The Museo delle Navi Romane
A highlight of my exploration of the area was the Museo delle Navi Romane, which is dedicated to the Lake Nemi ships of Emperor Caligula.
While the original ships were destroyed during World War II, the museum features small-scale models and numerous artifacts, giving you a glimpse into the luxurious world of Roman emperors.
The museum itself is situated close to the lake, making it a convenient stop while exploring the area.
And that’s it! I hope you enjoyed this traveler’s guide to Lake Nemi. If you liked it, I would highly recommend that you go for a trip to the lake yourself during your next visit to Rome!